Streaming on Old TV: How to Watch Netflix, YouTube and More

Last checked: 7 November 2026. App support and device models change, so confirm on the maker’s page before you buy.

Start with the section that matches your TV. If you already own a games console, Blu-ray player or laptop, you may not need to buy anything.

Can you stream on an old TV?

Yes. An old TV can’t run streaming apps or join your Wi-Fi by itself. A small device does that job instead, and the TV just shows the picture and plays the sound. That is why the TV’s age matters far less than its sockets.

Your TV	What you need
Non-smart TV with an HDMI socket	A streaming stick or box. This is the simplest route.
Older smart TV with apps that crash, vanish or won’t update	The same stick or box, plugged into HDMI. The TV’s own apps are ignored.
TV with no HDMI, but composite, component or SCART	A powered HDMI converter plus a stick. Standard definition only, and not guaranteed to work with every app.
Tube (CRT) TV	The same converter route. Expect a small, soft picture, often in 4:3 shape.

Don’t assume a smart TV is fine. Streaming services stop supporting old TV software, so an older smart TV can end up no better off than a non-smart one.

Whichever route you take, you need:

• A video input on the TV that your device can use: HDMI, or a converter for older sockets
• A spare mains socket near the TV for the device’s power adapter
• Wi-Fi in that room, or an Ethernet adapter if your device supports one
• An account for each service you want to watch

It is not worth the effort when the set has only an aerial socket or a faulty screen. The cost section near the end covers when to replace.

First, check what you already own

Streaming apps come built into more devices than most people realise. If any of these are plugged into your television, try them before spending a penny:

• A games console. Recent PlayStation and Xbox consoles carry Netflix, Prime Video, Disney+, iPlayer and most of the rest. Very old models may have lost app support.
• A Blu-ray player. Many from the last decade or so include streaming apps and just need joining to Wi-Fi. Check the app list, as some older players have lost apps.
• A set-top box. Sky, Virgin Media and YouView boxes carry a range of streaming apps.
• A laptop and an HDMI cable. Not elegant, and there is no remote, but it works today at no cost.

If one of these works, you can stop here. A new device is only worth buying when these fall short.

How to find out which sockets your old TV has

Look at the back and sides of the TV. Match what you see to the guide below, then note the label next to each socket.

Sockets are usually labelled. HDMI ones are numbered, such as HDMI 1 and HDMI 2, and that number is what you pick on the TV’s Input or Source menu. A socket marked ARC still works as a normal HDMI input.

Socket	What it carries	Best picture	Use for streaming?
HDMI	Picture and sound in one cable (digital)	Whatever the screen can show, up to 4K on 4K sets	Yes. The best route.
SCART	Picture and sound (analogue)	Standard definition	Only through a converter
Composite (yellow, red, white)	Picture on yellow, stereo sound on red and white (analogue)	Standard definition (576i in the UK)	Only through a converter
Component (green, blue, red)	Picture on three plugs, sound on separate red and white plugs (analogue)	Can carry HD on sets built for it. Depends on the TV and converter	Only through a converter
S-Video or VGA	Picture only, sound separate (analogue)	Varies by TV	Rare. Converter route. Check the manual
Aerial (coaxial or RF)	Broadcast signal for Freeview	Not designed for streaming kit	No

How to find your TV’s model number

The model number is on a label on the back or side of the TV. Many sets also show it under Settings, then Support or About. Search the number with the word ‘inputs’ or ‘specifications’, or check the manual, to confirm which sockets you have and what resolution the screen supports.

Pick your route

Follow the first question that matches your TV.

How to stream on a non-smart TV with HDMI

This is the easiest route and fits most old TVs. The stick plugs into an HDMI socket and takes its power separately.

What you need

• A working HDMI socket on the TV
• A streaming stick or box
• Wi-Fi in the room
• The power adapter that came with the device, and a mains socket
• The TV remote, to pick the HDMI input

Step by step

1. Plug the stick into a spare HDMI socket. If the socket is tight against the wall, an HDMI extender lead helps. Some sticks include one.
2. Connect the stick’s power cable to its adapter and plug the adapter into a mains socket.
3. Switch the TV on.
4. Press Input or Source on the TV remote and choose the HDMI number the stick is plugged into.
5. Follow the on-screen set-up and join your Wi-Fi.
6. Sign in to your streaming accounts, such as Netflix or iPlayer.
7. Open an app and press play. Use the stick’s own remote from now on.

Some stick remotes can also switch the TV on and control the volume, if the TV supports it. That gives you one remote for everything.

Which devices can you use?

These are the main types. They all do the same basic job, so choose by how you will use it. Models and prices change often, so check the maker’s page first.

• Amazon Fire TV Stick. An HDMI stick with its own remote. The home screen promotes Amazon’s own content. Most models need the supplied power adapter. A few newer ones are made to run from the TV’s USB socket.
• Roku streaming devices. Sticks and boxes with a neutral menu that treats every service equally. The basic HD models suit old TVs.
• Google TV Streamer. A box rather than a stick, with a fuller interface and a voice remote. It runs from the power adapter in the box.
• Apple TV 4K. Apple’s box. Useful if you want to send video from an iPhone with AirPlay.
• Android TV boxes. Buy only from known brands and shops. See the safety section below.

Can you use a 4K stick on an old HD TV?

Yes, it will work. The stick and TV agree on a picture size, and the stick drops to what the TV can show. But a 4K stick can’t make the TV show 4K, so you gain nothing by paying more. If your TV is not 4K, the cheaper HD model is the sensible buy. If you plan to buy a 4K TV later, our guide to 4K streaming in the UK covers what else you will need.

What to do when apps stop working on an older smart TV

Older smart TVs fail in two ways. One app may vanish or refuse to open, or the TV’s software may stop getting updates altogether. Netflix warns that it may no longer be available on some TVs and streaming devices made before 2015.

What to try first

• Turn the TV off at the wall for a minute, then back on.
• Check Settings for a software or firmware update.
• Search the TV’s app store for the app. If it isn’t listed, the TV can’t run it.
• Check the service’s supported-devices page for your TV brand.

If an app says it is no longer available on your device, an update won’t fix it. The usual cure is the HDMI route above. A games console or laptop also works. Replace the TV only if its screen or HDMI sockets are failing.

How to stream on an old TV without HDMI

If your TV has no HDMI, the stick’s digital signal must be turned into an analogue one first. A converter does that. It is a small powered box, not a cable, and it needs its own mains or USB power supply.

How to connect a stick through a converter

1. Plug the stick into the converter’s HDMI input. The stick still needs its own power.
2. Connect the converter to the TV. For composite, match the yellow, red and white plugs to the sockets of the same colour. For SCART, choose a converter with a SCART output. If it has a PAL/NTSC switch, set it to PAL, the UK standard.
3. Power the converter from its own adapter.
4. Switch the TV to its AV or SCART input.
5. Set up the stick as normal.
6. Check the picture and sound with the apps you want.

Why Netflix may show a blank screen (HDCP)

Streaming apps protect their video with HDCP, a copy-protection system that checks every device between the stick and the screen. The HDMI rules don’t allow protected video to be turned into an analogue signal, and converter makers such as Lindy say so in their product notes. The result can be a blank screen or an error message.

Results vary by stick, app and converter, so treat this route as hit and miss. Buy from a shop with an easy returns policy and test the apps you want. We don’t cover ways around HDCP.

What about component or SCART converters?

They work the same way. A component converter only helps if your TV has component sockets and accepts the picture size it sends, so check the manual first. A SCART converter outputs standard definition. Both face the same HDCP limit.

What you give up with a converter

• Picture quality drops to standard definition (576i in the UK), so small text looks soft.
• Sound travels in stereo on the red and white plugs, so you must connect them.
• You need an extra mains socket and more cables.
• Some apps may show nothing at all.

Can you stream on a CRT (tube) TV?

Sometimes. Most tube TVs have no HDMI, so you are back to the converter route above, with the same limits. A few extra points apply to tube sets.

• The picture is standard definition. HD programmes are scaled down, so they look softer than on a flat screen.
• Many tube TVs are 4:3. Widescreen programmes show with black bars above and below, and the picture is smaller. Stretching it to fill the screen distorts faces. Later tube sets are often widescreen, so it depends on yours.
• Look for the shape setting. It is usually called Picture size, Aspect or Format in the TV menu.

A tube TV suits a spare room and casual viewing. If you want to watch every night, a flat-screen TV is the better use of your money.

Other ways: laptop, phone and casting

These suit a TV with HDMI, and they need no streaming stick if you already have the right cable.

Connect a laptop

Plug an HDMI cable into the laptop and the TV, then choose that HDMI input on the TV. If your laptop has only USB-C, use a USB-C to HDMI cable or adapter. The USB-C port must support video output. On Windows, press the Windows key and P to choose Duplicate or Extend. On a Mac, open Displays in System Settings.

Connect a phone

A phone needs a video adapter, such as a USB-C to HDMI adapter (the phone must support video output) or Apple’s digital AV adapter for an iPhone. A normal charging cable carries power and data, but no video.

Casting or screen mirroring

Method	How it works	Watch out for
Casting	Your phone tells the receiver to play the video itself, so the phone is free to use.	The app must support casting. The phone and receiver must be on the same Wi-Fi network.
Screen mirroring	Copies your phone’s screen to the TV.	The phone must stay on, and some apps block mirroring.

An old TV can’t receive a cast on its own. You need a receiver plugged into HDMI, which is the streaming stick or box again.

Power, sound and Wi-Fi

Power: use the adapter in the box

Use the power adapter supplied with the device. A TV’s USB socket often can’t supply enough current. A standard USB 2.0 socket gives 0.5 A, while Fire TV Sticks come with a 1 A adapter and Google says TV USB power may not be enough for its Chromecast with Google TV, which needs 5 V and 1.5 A. A device that keeps restarting, or shows a low-power warning, is usually underpowered. A few newer sticks are designed to run from a TV’s USB socket, so check your model’s guide.

Sound

HDMI carries sound to the TV speakers. With a converter, sound travels on the red and white plugs. If you have a picture but no sound, check these in order:

• The TV volume and mute
• That the TV is on the right input
• That the red and white plugs are firmly in the matching sockets (converter route)
• The audio output setting on the stick

To improve the sound, connect a soundbar or speakers to the TV’s headphone, optical or line-out socket if it has one.

Wi-Fi and internet speed

Streaming needs a steady connection more than a fast one. Netflix recommends 3 Mbps for 720p, 5 Mbps for 1080p and 15 Mbps for 4K. An old TV will rarely show more than 1080p, so plan on 5 Mbps per screen, plus whatever else your household is using.

Our guide to internet speed for streaming in the UK shows how to add up the speed for several screens. If video stalls, try these in order:

• Move the router closer, or give the stick a clear line of sight to it.
• Use the 5 GHz Wi-Fi band if the stick supports it. It is faster at short range, while 2.4 GHz reaches further.
• Use an Ethernet adapter if your model accepts one and the TV is near the router. Some do.

For more fixes, see our guide to fixing Netflix buffering.

What picture quality can you expect?

Your TV sets the limit, not the stick. A streaming device adds apps and an internet connection, but it can’t add pixels to the screen.

• 4K on a 1080p TV: plays at 1080p. 4K has four times the pixels of 1080p, and a 1080p screen can’t show them.
• HD on a 720p TV: plays at 720p. That is the screen’s limit, not a fault.
• Blurry picture: usually a standard-definition connection, a low app quality setting (Netflix’s lowest data setting gives basic quality) or the TV’s sharpness setting.
• Black border or cut-off edges (overscan): common on older sets. Fix it in the TV’s picture settings, not the stick’s.
• Stretched or squashed picture: change Picture size or Aspect on the TV.

Fix common streaming problems

Problem	Likely cause	What to do
No signal or blue screen	Wrong input, loose cable or no power to the stick	Pick the matching HDMI number. Push the HDMI plug in at both ends. Check the stick has power. Try another HDMI socket.
Stick keeps restarting or shows a low-power message	The TV’s USB socket is too weak	Use the supplied wall adapter.
Black screen or HDCP error	Protected video is blocked somewhere in the chain	Reseat the cables, restart everything, try another HDMI socket or cable, and connect straight to the TV. A converter may be the cause.
Picture but no sound	Muted, wrong audio output or loose red and white plugs	Check volume, mute, the plugs and the stick’s audio setting.
Picture stretched or has black bars	Wrong picture shape for the screen	Change Picture size or Aspect on the TV.
App missing or won’t open	The app doesn’t support your device	Check the service’s supported-devices page, or use a stick.
Keeps buffering	Weak Wi-Fi or slow internet	Move the router closer, use 5 GHz or Ethernet, and check your speed.
Stick won’t join Wi-Fi	Wrong password or weak signal	Restart the router and the stick. Test with a phone hotspot.

For HDCP errors, Roku’s HDCP error guide lists the same checks and suits most HDMI setups. None of it helps if the converter is the cause.

Is it cheaper to make an old TV smart or buy a new one?

Adding a device usually costs far less than replacing a working TV. Prices change constantly and vary by shop, so check current prices before you buy. These devices are often discounted.

Route	What you buy	Setup	Picture	How long it lasts
Console, Blu-ray player or laptop you already own	Nothing new, maybe a cable	Low	Matches the TV	Fine while the apps stay supported
Basic HD stick on an HDMI TV	One small device	Very low	Up to the TV’s own limit	Until the TV fails or the stick stops getting updates
4K stick or box on a non-4K TV	A dearer device with no visible gain today	Very low	Same as an HD stick	Pays off only if you buy a 4K TV later
Converter plus stick on a no-HDMI TV	Stick, converter and extra cables	Medium	Standard definition. Some apps may stay blank	The weakest option
New TV	Highest upfront cost	Low to medium	Best	Longest

With about seven in ten UK homes already paying for a service, the TV is often the only thing in the way. If you are also trimming bills, you can cancel a streaming subscription you no longer use, and our list of free streaming in the UK shows what costs nothing. To decide what to pay for, compare the UK streaming services.

Keep the TV if

• The screen is in good condition and the picture looks fine
• It has at least one working HDMI socket
• Nobody needs 4K

Replace it if

• It has no HDMI and you want protected apps to work
• It has only an aerial socket
• The screen is faulty or the picture is dim
• You want 4K

Safety, unofficial boxes and the TV Licence

TV Licence rules when streaming

The licence rule depends on what you watch, not on the device. An old TV, a stick and a converter all follow the same rules. A standard colour TV Licence costs £180 from 1 April 2026, and one licence covers a household.

What you watch	Licence needed?
Live TV on any channel, including live channels streamed online	Yes
BBC iPlayer, live or on demand, on any device	Yes
On-demand programmes on Netflix, Prime Video, ITVX or YouTube (not live)	No
DVDs and Blu-rays	No

Watching without a licence when you need one can lead to a fine of up to £1,000. Our guide to the TV Licence and streaming covers the grey areas.

Avoid unofficial streaming boxes

Skip boxes sold with ‘free’ Sky, Netflix or sports channels, or described as ‘jailbroken’ or ‘fully loaded’. They usually rely on unlicensed streams. They can carry malware, lead to scam payments and stop working without warning. Buy sticks and boxes from known brands and established shops. If you have been sold one, report it through Citizens Advice, which passes complaints to Trading Standards.

Keep the electrics safe

• Use the power adapter and cable supplied with the device, or one from the same maker.
• Look for a UKCA or CE mark on any adapter.
• Leave space around converters and power adapters so they can cool.
• Don’t overload extension leads, and never open or modify the TV or device.

Frequently asked questions

Can you stream on an old TV?

Yes. Plug a streaming stick into an HDMI socket, or use a powered converter if the TV has none.

How can I make my old TV smart?

Plug a streaming stick or box into an HDMI socket, join your Wi-Fi and switch the TV to that input. The stick adds the apps. The TV only shows the picture.

Can I watch Netflix on a non-smart TV?

Yes. Use a stick or box on HDMI, a games console, or a laptop with an HDMI cable.

Can I use a Fire TV Stick on an old TV?

Yes, if the TV has a spare HDMI socket. Through a converter it may not work, because of HDCP.

Can I use a streaming stick without HDMI?

Only through a powered HDMI converter. The picture is standard definition, and protected apps may show a blank screen.

How do I stream on an old TV without Wi-Fi?

A stick needs an internet connection. Use an Ethernet adapter if your model accepts one, or a phone hotspot. Netflix in HD can use up to 3 GB an hour, so watch your data.

Can I connect my phone to an old TV?

Yes. Use a casting receiver on HDMI, or a wired video adapter that suits your phone.

Can I stream on a CRT or tube TV?

Sometimes, through a converter. Expect a standard-definition picture, often in 4:3 shape.

Will a 4K streaming stick work on a 1080p TV?

Yes, but the picture is limited to what the TV can show. You gain nothing from the extra cost.

Can I use my TV’s USB port to power a streaming stick?

Sometimes, but it is not reliable. Use the supplied wall adapter unless your model is designed for TV USB power.

Why does my old TV show no signal?

Usually the wrong input is selected or the stick has no power. Check the HDMI number and the power cable.

Why does my HDMI converter show a black screen?

HDCP copy protection is probably blocking the picture. Protected video can’t be passed to an analogue connection.

Can I watch YouTube on an old television?

Yes, through a stick, box or console. Watching clips on demand needs no TV Licence, but live streams do.

Do I need a new TV to watch streaming services?

No. A stick gives you everything a smart TV does, and often works better than the software built into older sets.

Is it worth making an old TV smart?

Yes, if the screen is good and it has an HDMI socket. If it has no HDMI, replacing it is usually better value.

In short

Check the sockets first. If there is an HDMI socket, a streaming stick is the simplest fix. A converter works for older sets, but the picture is softer and protected apps may not play. If the set has only an aerial socket, replace it.

For other UK streaming problems, see our UK streaming help guide.